Excerpted with permission of the publisher from Woven Wire Jewelry by Linda L. Chandler and Christine R. Ritchey. Copyright 2004 Interweave Press, Inc.
Not to be reprinted. All rights reserved.
SIX
free-form bracelet
The freedom to make mistakes provides
the best environment for creativity.
Anonymous
This bracelet is fun to make and begs to be customized. Once you understand the
technique, you can try various combinations of wire and materials. For example,
adding beads or wire coils to the long, curved parts can produce interesting
results. The bracelet can be lengthened to make a great ankle bracelet or choker.
You can wear it on your upper arm, Cleopatra-style. Maybe you will even invent a
new weave! It might be a good idea to make this bracelet in copper until you mas-
ter the technique.
Ma t e r i a l s T o o l s
16-gauge (1.3 mm) round dead- Masking tape Flat file
soft gold-filled wire (This wire Flat-nose pliers Wire cutters
makes a strong bracelet that Nylon-jaw pliers Clamp
will hold its shape very well.) Round-nose pliers Ruler
Stepped/chain-nose pliers Sharp-pointed felt marker
53
Excerpted with permission of the publisher from Woven Wire Jewelry by Linda L. Chandler and Christine R. Ritchey. Copyright 2004 Interweave Press, Inc.
Not to be reprinted. All rights reserved.
Figure 1
Make a loop.
These instructions are for a 7" (18-cm)
Figure 2
bracelet. The bracelet has seven sections
Wrap the loop
that should measure about 1" each. To
with masking
lengthen or shorten the bracelet, add or
tape.
omit one or more sections.
Figure 3
Taped wires in
the clamp
Cut the wire into three 20" (0.5 m) pieces. Find the
Figure 4
center and fold the wires in half with flat-nose pli-
Wires
ers. The wires should form a loop that crosses in a
uncrossed and
graceful curve (Figure 1).
straightened.
1
The loop s inside diameter should be about D 2" (1.3
cm) at its widest part. Wrap this loop with masking
tape (Figure 2) and place the taped loop in the
clamp (Figure 3). Uncross the wires and straighten
Figure 5
them (Figure 4). This may sound strange, but hang
Wires divided
in there!
into three sets
of two wires.
54
Excerpted with permission of the publisher from Woven Wire Jewelry by Linda L. Chandler and Christine R. Ritchey. Copyright 2004 Interweave Press, Inc.
Not to be reprinted. All rights reserved.
Figure 6
Divide the wires into three sets of
The middle set
two wires (Figure 5). We will
placed behind
call the sets the left set, the
the left set.
middle set, and the right
set. As you weave, the sets
Figure 7
will change position
Making the
often. To avoid confu-
first twist.
sion, whichever set hap-
pens to be on the left
will be called the left set,
whichever set is in the
middle will be the middle
set, and whichever set is on
Figure 8
the right will be the right set.
Hold the top of
the twist very
Move the middle set behind the left
firmly and
set (Figure 6). Complete the first
spread the sets
twist by pulling the middle set to the
far apart.
left with your left hand and the left set to the
right with your right hand (Figure 7). This twist
should be fairly tight. Keep the wires flat and in
Figure 9
line. Just let the clamp dangle.
Place the
middle set
Grasp the top of the twist with your left thumb and
behind the
index finger and spread the wire sets farther apart
left set.
to prepare for the second twist (Figure 8). To make
the second twist, place the middle set behind the
left set (Figure 9) and bring the left set in front of
the middle set (Figure 10). Keep a tight grip on top
Figure 10
of the first twist throughout these steps.
Place the left
set in front of
the middle set.
55
Excerpted with permission of the publisher from Woven Wire Jewelry by Linda L. Chandler and Christine R. Ritchey. Copyright 2004 Interweave Press, Inc.
Not to be reprinted. All rights reserved.
Figure 11
Figures 11 and 12 show the completion of the second
Completing the
twist.
second twist.
Figure 12
The two twists
completed.
Figure 13
Bend the right set of wires to the left, behind the mid-
Grasp the right
dle set, to join the left set (Figures 13 and 14). Try
set in your right
for a graceful curve.
hand.
Figure 14
Curve the right
set and bring it
behind the
middle set.
Pull what is now the left set to the right, across and in
Figure 15
front of the other two sets (Figure 15). Grasp the
The left set
place where the wires intersect (marked by the cir-
pulled across
cle). Place your left hand as in Figure 16. This com-
and in front
pletes the first section.
of the other
two sets. The
intersection
is circled.
56
Excerpted with permission of the publisher from Woven Wire Jewelry by Linda L. Chandler and Christine R. Ritchey. Copyright 2004 Interweave Press, Inc.
Not to be reprinted. All rights reserved.
Figure 16
Measure here to make sure this section is about 1" (2.5
Grasp the
cm) long. If the section is much longer than 1" (2.5
intersection
cm), you have woven too loosely. Conversely, if the
of the wires
section is much shorter than 1", you have woven
firmly.
too tightly. In either case, it would be a good idea to
start over. If your sections are only slightly off, just
Figure 17
try to keep each section the same length. Remove
Bring the
the clamp.
middle set to
the right and
in front of the
right set.
For the second section, we will make the twists on the
right side of the bracelet. Keep a tight grasp and
spread the sets far apart. Bring the middle set to the
Figure 18
right and in front of the right set (Figure 17). Now
The right set
bring the right set to the left and behind the middle
goes to the
set (Figure 18). Figure 19 shows the first twist fin-
left, behind
ished.
the middle
set.
Figure 19
The first twist
Bring the right set to the left, behind the middle set.
finished.
Bring the middle set to the right and in front of the
right set. Figure 20 shows the two finished twists on
the right side of the bracelet.
Figure 20
The two twists
are finished.
57
Excerpted with permission of the publisher from Woven Wire Jewelry by Linda L. Chandler and Christine R. Ritchey. Copyright 2004 Interweave Press, Inc.
Not to be reprinted. All rights reserved.
Figure 21
Take the left set and make another graceful curve to
Curve the left
the right and in front of the middle set to join to
set to the right.
the right set (Figures 21 and 22). This process com-
pletes the second section.
Figure 22
Bring the left
set in front of
the middle set
Move the left set farther to the left and move the mid-
to join the
dle and right sets farther to the right to prepare for
right set.
the third section (Figures 23 and 24).
Figure 23
Pull the left
set farther to
At this point, you should begin to see a pattern emerg-
the left.
ing. The first section has two twists on the left and a
curve on the right. The second section has two twists
on the right and a curve on the left. Now you will
Figure 24
simply repeat the first section and the second section
Pull the middle
until you have seven sections (or as many sections as
and right sets
you need for the length you desire). Remember to
farther to the
measure each section to make sure each is about one
right.
inch long.
Figure 25
Bring the
middle set to
To begin the third set, bring the middle set to the left
the left behind
and behind the left set. Bring the left set to the right
the left set.
and in front of the middle set (Figures 25 and 26).
Figure 26
Bring the left
set in front of
the middle set.
58
Excerpted with permission of the publisher from Woven Wire Jewelry by Linda L. Chandler and Christine R. Ritchey. Copyright 2004 Interweave Press, Inc.
Not to be reprinted. All rights reserved.
Third section almost completed
This set will bend to the left to
make the broad curve.
Figure 27
For the second twist, bring the middle set to the left
Second section
Reviewing the
and behind the left set, and the left set to the right
First section
process.
and in front of the middle set. This completes the
two twists of the third set.
Figure 28
Make a curve
to the left with
the right set.
Figure 27 shows the progress at this point. You can see
that the first section has two twists on the left and a
long bend on the right. This is reversed on the sec-
Figure 29
ond section, and the third section will be identical
The third section
to the first section when you make another graceful
completed and
bend from right to left to complete the third sec-
ready for the
tion (Figures 28 and 29).
fourth section.
Note that on the odd-numbered sections, the curve
Figure 30
goes under the middle set and on the even sets the
One set on top;
curve goes over the middle set.
One set on top
two sets on top.
Two sets on top
Curve the bracelet slightly in the direction of its final
shape. This helps the wires lie flat and makes the
whole process easier. Every section will alternate
Figure 31
between having one set on top and two sets on top
The last section.
(Figure 30).
After making the last section, cross the left set across
the other sets to the right (Figure 31). Use flat-nose
pliers to hold the two sets in place
59
Excerpted with permission of the publisher from Woven Wire Jewelry by Linda L. Chandler and Christine R. Ritchey. Copyright 2004 Interweave Press, Inc.
Not to be reprinted. All rights reserved.
Figure 32
(Figure 32) while you begin to wrap the left set tightly
Beginning to
around and to the back of the two right sets. Now
wrap the end of
hold the wires as in Figure 33 while you continue
the bracelet.
wrapping the left set around the other two sets.
Figure 33
Hold the set
with pliers to
make wrapping
When you have wrapped the wires to the back, tighten
easier.
the wrap securely with pliers (Figure 34). This end
will ultimately hold the bracelet clasp.
Figure 34
Wrap to the
back.
Make one more wrap by bringing the left set to the
front (Figure 35), over, and around the back (Fig-
ure 36). Keep the other four wires straight and close
together. When you have two wraps showing on the
front of the bracelet, cut the wrap wires only on the
back of the bracelet. File the ends and press firmly
Figure 35
into place with the pliers. Figure 37 shows the wires
Bring the wrap
before cutting. Figure 38 shows how the front of
around to the
the bracelet should look when finished.
front.
Figure 36
Making the
second wrap.
60
Excerpted with permission of the publisher from Woven Wire Jewelry by Linda L. Chandler and Christine R. Ritchey. Copyright 2004 Interweave Press, Inc.
Not to be reprinted. All rights reserved.
Figure 37
To finish the catch end of the bracelet, take the inner-
The back of
most loop and bring it to the left (Figure 39). Wrap
the bracelet
this loop to the back of the bracelet and press it
before cutting
down (Figure 40). Figure 41 shows the innermost
off the wires.
loop on the back of the bracelet. Don t flatten it
completely, just snug it against the other wires. We
Figure 38
want to keep nice, flowing curves and avoid sharp
The front of
angles.
the bracelet,
showing the
two wraps.
Figure 39
Pull the inner-
most loop to
the left.
Figure 40
The innermost
loop pressed
firmly to the
back of the
bracelet.
Figure 41
The back of
bracelet show-
ing innermost
loop pressed
into place.
61
Excerpted with permission of the publisher from Woven Wire Jewelry by Linda L. Chandler and Christine R. Ritchey. Copyright 2004 Interweave Press, Inc.
Not to be reprinted. All rights reserved.
Figure 42
Now cut the outermost loop somewhere near the mid-
Cut the outer-
dle. This does not have to be exact (Figures 42 and
most wire.
43). Grasp the ends of the cut wires with needle-
nose pliers and bend them to the back of the
Figure 43
bracelet in wide, graceful curves (Figure 44). To
The outermost
avoid marring, grasp only the very ends of the cut
loop cut in half.
wires with pliers or wrap the jaws of the pliers with
tape.
Figure 44
Hold the very
end of the wire
with the pliers.
Tuck the left and right wires into the wrap where they
Figure 45
will not come out and irritate the skin (Figures 45
Tuck in the
and 46).
left wire.
Figure 46
Tuck in the
right wire.
After the wires are curved to the back of the bracelet,
play with the placement and position them so that
the front of the bracelet pleases you (Figure 47).
Figure 47
Use your imagination here. Every bracelet seems to
Adjusting the
turn out differently, which is half the fun.
wires for the
most attractive
appearance.
62
Excerpted with permission of the publisher from Woven Wire Jewelry by Linda L. Chandler and Christine R. Ritchey. Copyright 2004 Interweave Press, Inc.
Not to be reprinted. All rights reserved.
Figure 48
The remaining loop will be the catch (Figure 48).
Wires tucked in.
Widen the catch by placing needle-nose pliers
One remaining
inside the loop and pressing them open (Figure
loop.
49). Figure 50 shows the widened catch.
Figure 49
Widening the
catch with
needle-nose
pliers.
Just to prove nothing is written in stone, look at the
circled loop in Figure 51. We decided to untuck
Figure 50
that loop, bring it around to the front, and do a curl
The widened
around the two right wires of the catch. Figure 52
catch.
shows the back of the bracelet with the new wraps
on the left. This finishes the catch.
Figure 51
Now go back to the other end of the bracelet to finish
Be creative!
the clasp. Be careful there is only one chance to
This is the front
get this right.
side of the
bracelet.
Keeping the wires straight and close together (Figure
5
Figure 52
53), cut the wires about D 8" (1.5 cm) long. File the
The back side
cut ends. File lightly and toward the center from
of the bracelet
each side. Be careful, or the wires will move out of
with the new
place and it will be difficult to get them back where
wrap on the left.
they belong.
Figure 53
Cutting the
wires.
63
Excerpted with permission of the publisher from Woven Wire Jewelry by Linda L. Chandler and Christine R. Ritchey. Copyright 2004 Interweave Press, Inc.
Not to be reprinted. All rights reserved.
Figure 54
Place either flat-nose or chain-nose pliers about
Place the pliers
halfway between the wrap and the cut ends and
about halfway
bend the four wires into a hook-shaped clasp (Fig-
between the
ure 54). Work slowly. If you bend the wires down
wrap and the
from just one side, the clasp will be crooked. Bend
cut ends.
the wires down from the left side a little (Figure 55),
then reposition the pliers on the right side and bend
down a little more (Figure 56). Work back and forth
Figure 55
until the wires form an even clasp (Figure 57).
Bend the wires
slowly.
Figure 56
Bend a little
on the right
and a little on
the left.
Figure 57
The finished
clasp.
Pull and form the bracelet until it is a smooth, oval
Figure 58
shape. Figure 58 shows the completed bracelet. For
Bracelet formed
a nice finish, put the bracelet in the tumbler for sev-
into a smooth
eral hours or overnight.
oval, catch and
clasp joined.
64
Excerpted with permission of the publisher from Woven Wire Jewelry by Linda L. Chandler and Christine R. Ritchey. Copyright 2004 Interweave Press, Inc.
Not to be reprinted. All rights reserved.
ANATOMY OF THE
FREE- FORM BRACELET
Starting at the catch end of the bracelet, Figure There are so many things that can be done with
59 shows the seven sections and how they alter- this free-form technique. Play with the many
nate overlapping and underlapping. We have possibilities and have fun!
flattened the bracelet for demonstration pur-
poses only. Don t do this yourself you d never
get the bracelet to look normal again.
2 over 2 under 2 over 2 under 2 over 2 under 2 over
Figure 59
The sets and
how they over-
and under-lap.
7th set 6th set 5th set 4th set 3rd set 2nd set 1st set
65
Excerpted with permission of the publisher from Woven Wire Jewelry by Linda L. Chandler and Christine R. Ritchey. Copyright 2004 Interweave Press, Inc.
Not to be reprinted. All rights reserved.
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