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Hold-Down Clamp
Our Top 10
Workbench
Accessories
Simple, shop-built devices
help you get the most out of
your workbench.
Size bolt to fit
Short arm is used for
workbench
thick stock
thickness
The workbench is the largest tool in my shop. And I use it for
a lot of tasks. But even the best of tools can benefit from some
practical accessories. The ten you see on these pages are the ones
Pivot block
I use most often in my shop. Besides making tasks quicker, safer,
holds arm
and more accurate, these simple add-ons can be built with mostly
in place
scrap material and in less than one hour. That s more than enough
reason to add a few of these to your bench.
Hold-Down Clamp
One of the keys to accurate they re made from wood, they won t
1
hand work is making sure that your mar your workpiece. And a large
workpiece is held securely. That s wing knob makes it a snap to tighten
Nuts act as a
where the hold-downs you see in the clamp down or loosen it quickly
Long arm keeps
stop to keep
the drawings come into play. Since to reposition the workpiece.
thin stock in
bolt from
place
dropping
down
T-nut in block
attaches hold-down
to bench
Planing Stop
Planing Stop
Securing large panels to my workbench
2
for planing or belt sanding was always a bit tricky.
Clamps often get in the way of the tool and bench
Slots
dogs are too narrow to keep the workpiece from
allow stop
shifting. To provide a solid stop for the workpiece,
to slide below
Planing into I attached this board to one end of the workbench.
bench top, out of
the stop keeps A pair of angled slots in the stop allow it to slide
the way
workpiece from below the worksurface when it s not needed. A
moving around couple of screws anchor it in place.
without clamps
From Woodsmith magazine page 1 of 4 ©2006 August Home Publishing Company
www.Woodsmith.com All rights reserved
V-Block
Upper block
V-Block
provides flat spot
3
The large, flat surface of my work-
for clamps
bench is perfect for most of the work I do. But
clamping a round or odd-shaped workpiece to
V-block made
the benchtop can seem more like trying to hold
from "two-by" stock
onto a wet bar of soap.
To make it easier to grab and hold these
pieces, I turn to the simple, two-part V-block
you see here. I made mine from a section of
Lower block
two-by stock. The base can be any length,
cradles workpiece
but I found 12" to be about right. It provides
and keeps it
in place
a stable, wiggle-free platform for drilling,
shaping, or smoothing. A shorter top piece
gives the clamps a flat spot to lock the part in
place without marring it.
Bench Hook
Fence can be used Plane into the fence
as a guide for for best control
crosscutting
Bench Hook
4
This is one bench accessory that
I always keep close at hand. I can use it as
a guide for quickly cutting parts to length
or as a planing stop for small parts, as you
can see in the drawing at left. The base also
protects the bench from sharp chisels and
Wide base
carving tools.
can be used for
The bench hook is made up of a wide ply-
chiseling to
wood base with a thick hardwood fence at
keep workbench
the back and a cleat along the front edge to
Cleat hooks
free of dings
catch on the edge of the workbench.
over edge of
the bench
Fence
Base
Bench Horse
Two horses
fully support
Side view of bench
Cleat
long work-
hook and bench horse
pieces
Bench Horse
I like to think of these narrow bench
5
hooks as benchtop saw horses. They raise
a workpiece high enough off the benchtop
to crosscut the end without damaging my
Size
bench. I also use them for trimming tenons.
bench horses
It s a good idea to make at least two so
to match
you can support long stock. I made mine
bench hook
the same depth as the full-size bench hook
to use as
shown above. This way, they can serve
outfeed
as outfeed support so long workpieces
support
won t sag.
From Woodsmith magazine page 2 of 4 ©2006 August Home Publishing Company
www.Woodsmith.com All rights reserved
Platform
Small Parts Platform
brings
accessories for the
small, detailed
workpieces to
a comfortable
BENCH VISE
height
Small Parts Platform
Hunching over a bench while
6
working on a small workpiece is a good way
to get a back ache. And securing a small,
thin part to a large workbench top can be
another problem. But the solution to these
two problems is a plywood platform that
couldn t be simpler to make.
The plywood top is small and thin
enough to securely clamp a workpiece on
all four sides for carving, or other close-up
work. I ve also found this platform comes
in handy as a small parts
assembly table.
The raised platform at
Base supports
right is just two small pieces
workpiece and
of plywood joined into a T
allows clamps on
shape with a dado and some
all sides as
Platform
glue and screws. Just be sure Size
needed
and support
the bottom leg of the T is groove
made from
long enough to bring the to match
#/4" plywood
platform up to a comfortable support
working height when it s thickness
clamped in a bench vise.
Board Jack
Board Jack
Position board jack below
Like small parts, clamping
7
edge of workpiece so it
and supporting long boards or wide
won t interfere with tool
panels to a workbench can pose some
challenges. Especially if you need to
work on the edges of these pieces.
The solution I use isn t really new.
In fact, it s been used by wood-
workers for hundreds of years. It s
called a board jack. (Although some
Board
people call it a sliding deadman. )
jack made
As you can see in the drawing
from a
at left, the board jack supports the
piece of
opposite end of a long workpiece
two-by
while it s clamped in the face vise.
stock
Although some board jacks are per-
manently attached to the workbench,
mine is just a board that gets clamped
in the end vise. A row of holes drilled
along the length and a short wood
Board jack
peg make it easy to adjust for the
supports long boards
width of the board or panel.
or panels held in a
face vise
From Woodsmith magazine page 3 of 4 ©2006 August Home Publishing Company
www.Woodsmith.com All rights reserved
Miter Shooting Board
Miter Shooting Board
A poor-fitting miter joint on a project sticks out
8
Workpiece
like a sore thumb. However, trimming it to fit tight on the
Fences
table saw or miter saw can be a challenge. That s when I
support workpiece
like to turn to a sharp hand plane and this miter shooting
at 45° to trim miters
board. With the shooting board, I can hold the workpiece
firmly against the angled fence. Then I can trim a bit at a
time to sneak up on the fit. The plane is guided by a wide
rabbet cut in the edge of the base. A pair of fences attached
to the base allow you to trim right or left miters.
Attach cleat
Machinist's Vise Dust channel
to base
keeps chips from
withscrews
interfering
with cut
Secure the
Rabbet
machinist's vise
guides plane
to workbench
in face vise
Add a Machinist s Vise
While I work with wood most of the time I m at my bench, there
9
are times when I need to cut, file, or shape metal. For that, a machinist s
vise comes in pretty handy. But I don t want or need it on my bench all
the time. To make for easy use, I bolted the vise to a plywood base that
has a cleat on the bottom. The cleat gets clamped in the face vise of the
workbench and holds the metal vise steady as a rock.
Mini Miter Box
10
Zing! If you ve ever tried to cut small
Mini Miter Box
pieces of molding on a power miter saw, you
know the sound a piece makes as it catches on
the blade and goes whistling across the shop.
Besides being difficult to control, cutting small
parts on the miter saw can
sometimes lead to tearout
Attach fence to cleat
and rough cut edges.
with screws
A cleaner and safer way to
make those cuts is to use a
hand saw and the small miter
box you see in the drawing
Kerfs
at right. It clamps securely
guide
in a bench vise. A kerf for 90°
Miter box
hand saw
and left and right 45° cuts in
makes it easy to
the fence guides the saw for
accurately cut small parts like
smooth cuts every time.
dowels or molding
at 90° or 45°
From Woodsmith magazine page 4 of 4 ©2006 August Home Publishing Company
www.Woodsmith.com All rights reserved
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