Pattern Pieces
1 Bodice Front
2x
2 Bodice Back
1x
3 Neck Band
2x
4 Sleeves
2x
5 Sleeve Flounce
2x
6 Facing for Slit
2x
7 Skirt Front
1x
8 Skirt Back
1x
9 Front Hem Band
1x
10 Back Hem Band
1x
11 Skirt Front/ Lining
1x
12 Skirt Back/ Lining
1x
Copy Paper with DinA4 Print:
The pattern pieces are printed with a narrow border onto 24 pages. Wait until all pages are printed. Arrange the pages as depicted in the page with instructions on how to put the pages together.
Cut the pages at the upper right edge along the narrow border. Start with the lower left page and glue the pieces together at the border lines.
Choose the size of the patter according to the Burda measurement chart. The sizes for dresses, Blouses, Jackets and Coats are determined by the bust measurement, the sizes for pants and skirts are determined by the hip measurement.
Adjust, if necessary, if your measurements differ from the Burda measurement chart.
Cut the pattern pieces for your size
Sizes 34 to 44:
In piece 1 the buttonholes are marked for a size 32.For the other sizes, mark the top buttonhole at the same distance from the neckline as in a size 32. The lowest buttonhole is the same for all sizes. Mark the remaining four buttonholes, evenly spaced, between the upper and lower buttonhole.
Lengthening or Shortening the Pattern
Our cut is designed for a height of 168 cm. (5 feet 5 inches). If you are taller or shorter, you can adjust the pattern at the lines that say, â€Ĺ›shorten or lengthen here”. That way, the fit remains the same.
â‡Ĺ‚Always change all pattern pieces at the same line and the same length.
How to:
Cut the pattern lines at the marked lines.
To lengthen: Push the pieces apart as far as necessary.
To shorten: Push the pieces together as far as necessary.
Adjust the side edges.
Cutting out
Selvage (-----) means: This is the middle of a pattern pieces, not an edge or a seam. The piece is cut twice the size of the pattern; the selvage is the middle axis of the piece.
The pattern pieces with interrupted outlines are placed onto the fabric with the printed side facing down.
The cutting plans show how to arrange the pattern pieces on the fabric.
Velvet, corduroy: Before you pin the pattern pieces to the fabric, you must determine the DIRECTION OF
THE NAP. Velvet and corduroy should be cut against the nap. In other words, lay the pattern pieces on the fabric so that the fibers are smoothed down when you run your hand from the lower to upper edges of the pattern piece.
CONTRASTING FABRIC:
Cut pieces 8 and 9 from contrasting fabric, as shown in the cutting layout.
If fabric is not folded, pin the pattern pieces on the right side.
If fabric is folded, the right side is facing inside. Pin pattern pieces onto the wrong side.
Cut the pieces that are placed over the selvage in the copy paper last, with the fabric not folded.
Seam and Hem Allowances are included in the pattern:
1.5 cm (5/8 inch) at the hem and all other edges and seams.
Using Burda copy paper, transfer the lines and marking on the pieces onto the wrong side of the fabric.
Instructions are included in the package.
INTERFACING
Cut interfacing according to the drawing and iron onto the wrong side of the fabric.
LINING
Cut lining as in pieces 11 and 12 â‡Ĺ‚See copy paper
Seam and Hem Allowances are included in the pattern:
1.5 cm (5/8 inch) at the hem and all other edges and seams.
Sewing
Transfer all lines of the pattern pieces onto the right side of the fabric with basting stitches
Dress
1.) Baste waist darts on bodice fronts and
back. Stitch each dart from edge toward
point. Press darts towards center front or
center back (1a)
Front Edges
2.) Finish edges of front self-facings. Turn
self-facings to inside along marked
FOLD LINES, baste and edge stitch in
place.
Stitch shoulder seams, matching seam
numbers (1). Finish edges of seam
allowances and press
Press seams open.
Neck Band
3.) Baste interfaced neckband piece to neck
edge, right sides facing, matching
centers. Seam numbers (2) must match
and horizontal marks must meet
shoulder seams. Stitch. Trim seam
allowances and clip curves. Press
allowances toward neckband.
4.) On the neckband piece with no
interfacing, trim allowance on lower
edge. Turn this allowance to wrong side,
baste, and press. Lay neckband pieces
together, right sides facing. Baste edges
together as illustrated, and stitch. Trim
seam allowances, trimming diagonally
across corners. Clip curves.
5.) Turn neckband right side out. Baste
seamed edges and press. Baste inner
edge to attachment seam. Topstitch close
to all edges of neckband, thereby
catching the inner edge.
Side Seams/ Left Slit
6.) Lay bodice front on bodice back, right
sides facing. Baste side seams, matching
seam numbers (3). Stitch, stitching, left
side seam from armhole edge to slit mark
(arrow). Tie- off ends of seams. Leave slit
basted. Finish edges of seam allowances
and press seams open. Remove basting at
slit.
Sleeves with ruffles
7.) To gather each sleeve cap, first stitch two
closely spaced lines of machine basting
from star symbol to star symbol. Fold each
sleeve lengthwise, right side facing in.
Stitch sleeve seams, matching seam
numbers (4). Finish edges of seam
allowances and press seams open.
8.) Cut into the edge of the lower sleeve, pull
apart cut edges and place onto the slit
facing as shown in the drawing. Baste. Iron
facing over the base seam.
9.) Turn facing inside halfway, fold and pin
onto the base seam and baste. Fold slit
right sides facing, stitch facing diagonally
at the end of the slit as shown in drawing
(9a)
10.) Fold over the facing at the front slit edge
and pin to the inside. Iron.
Fold sleeves lengthwise, right side inside. Baste
sleeve seams (seam number 4). Trim seam
allowances folded together and iron on one
side.Pull in lower sleeve edge as in text and
drawing 15.
11.) Pin sleeve flounces onto the lower sleeve
edge (seam number 6) and stitch. Iron
seam allowances into the flounce. Fold
over and iron the seam
allowance of
the other long edges.
12.) Pin sleeve flounces onto the lower sleeve
edge (seam number 6) and stitch. Iron
seam allowances into the flounce. Fold
over and iron the seam
allowance of
the other long edges.
Add in buttonholes.
Sew buttons.
Setting in Sleeves
To gather each sleeve cap, bull bobbin threads of
machine basting.
13.) Pin each sleeve to armhole edge, right
sides facing.
.
When setting in
sleeves, 4 points are important for proper fit
â‡Ĺ‚The horizontal marks (7) on sleeve and bodice
front must match. Sleeve seam and side seam must
match. The horizontal mark on sleeve cap must match
shoulder seam. The gathering must be distributed
evenly. Working from the sleeve side, baste sleeve to
armhole edge and stitch. Trim seam allowances.
Finish seam allowances and press toward sleeve.
Work BUTTONHOLES in right front edge of bodice
and neck band.
Sew BUTTONS to left front edge of bodice and
neckband, at marked center front, to match
buttonholes. Button bodice closed.
14.) Lay skirt front on skirt back, right sides
facing. Baste side seams, matching
Seam numbers (8) and stitch, stitching
left side seam from slit mark to lower
edge. Tie-off edge of seams. Leave slit
basted. Finish sedges of seam
allowances and press seams open.
15.) To gather upper edge of skirt, first stitch
two closely spaced lines of machine
basting close to upper edge. Pull bobbin
threads to gather skirt to match the
lower edge of bodice. Knot gathering
threads. Distribute evenly.
â‡Ĺ‚Open allowances on slit edges on slit
edges of bodice and skirt.
16.) Pin upper edge of skirt to lower edge of
bodice right sides facing,matching side
seams. Baste skirt to bodice, matching
seam numbers (12), and stitch. Trim
seam allowances. Finish edges of
allowances together and press up.
Zip
Turn seam allowances on slit edges to inside again.
17.) Baste zipper under slit edges so that
zipper teeth are covered. Sew zipper in
place by machine, using the zipper foot.
Lining: Stitch side seams as described skirt, matching seam numbers (9) and leaving slit open as mirror
image to skirt.
Hem Band
Stitch side seams on hem band, matching seam
numbers (10). Finish edges of seam allowances and
press seams open.
18.) Stitch hem band to lower edge of
lining, with right side of hem band
facing wrong side of lining. Seam
numbers (11) must match and side
seams must match. Finish edges of
seam allowances together and press
towards lining. Finish upper edge of
lining and gather as described and
illustrated for step 15.
19.) Pull lining into skirt, wrong sides
facing. Pin upper edge of lining to
skirt attachment seam, matching side
seams. Stitch lining in place, as close
to zipper as possible. Sew lining edges
to zipper tapes by hand.
Seam
20.) Trim seam allowances at the skirt
and seam band to 0.7 cm, de-baste,
fold over, iron and stitch
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