Mila
By: burdastyle
http://www.burdastyle.com/projects/mila
This dress comes from our very own and very talented MilasFashion The was part of BurdaStyle s Open Call
for Designers back in late November. MilasFashion s design certainly fit the bill for the summer in the city
theme. Congrats MilasFashion!
Materials
cotton, silk charmeuse
Step 1
1
PATTERN
1 Front piece (outer) 2x
2 Front piece (inner) 1x
3 Front skirt panel 2x
4 Facing (front piece) 2x
5 Back piece 2x
6 Back skirt panel 2x
7 Pocket pouch 4x
8 Bias strips â armhole 2x
9 Bias strips â neckline 3x
Fabrics: Cotton fabrics
Step 2
2
The patterns can be printed out at the copy shop. If you decide to print them at home, follow the instructions:
Paper cut for ANSI A (German DIN A4) prints:
The patterns are printed out on 28 sheets with a thin frame. Wait until all sheets are printed out. Arrange the
sheets so that they fit together (see additional page with the overview of the prints). Fold the single sheets on
the upper and right edge along the thin frame lines. Begin with the left lower sheet and then tape the frame
lines together precisely.
Step 3
ADJUST PATTERN SIZES
Select your size according to the Burda-dimension table: dresses, blouses, jackets and coats according to the
bust size, trousers and skirts according to the hip width. Change the pattern to fit your measurements if they
deviate from the Burda-size chart. Cut out the pattern according to your size
Refer to our â Adjust patterns for mixed sizesâ technique.
3
LENGTHENING OR SHORTENING THE PATTERN PIECES
Our pattern is calculated for a height of 5â 6â (168 cm). If you are taller or shorter, you can adjust the
pattern pieces along the lines marked lengthen or shorten here . This way the proper fit is maintained.
Always adjust all pattern pieces along the same line to the same degree.
How to lengthen and shorten pattern pieces:
Cut the pattern pieces along the marked lines
To lengthen, slide the two halves of the pattern piece as far apart as necessary.
To shorten, overlap the two halves of the pattern piece as far as necessary. Blend the side edges.
Step 4
4
CUTTING OUT
FOLD (â â â â ) means: Cut on the fold, the fold being the center of the pattern piece, but never a cut
edge or seam. The piece should be cut double, with the fold line forming the center line. Pattern pieces that
are outlined with a broken line in the cutting diagrams are to be placed face down on the fabric. The cutting
diagrams on the pattern sheet show how the pattern pieces should be placed on the fabric.
The cutting diagrams show the placement of the pattern on the fabric.
Fabric I, fabric II and tulle.
For a single layer of fabric, the pattern pieces are pinned to the right side. For double layers of fabric, the
right sides are facing and the pattern pieces are pinned to the wrong side. The pattern pieces that are shown
extending over the fold of the fabric in the cutting diagram should be cut last from a single layer of fabric.
Step 5
SEAM AND HEMLINE ALLOWANCES are included on an average:
5/8â (1.5 cm) for all edges and stitches. Using BURDA copying paper, transfer the lines and signs of the
pattern onto the wrong side of the fabric. Instructions can be found in the packaging.
Sewing
While sewing, the right sides of the fabric are facing.
Transfer all lines of the pattern onto the right side of the fabric using basting stitches.
Step 6
Front pieces
Darts
Pin the darts on the front piece and stitch to a point. Knot thread ends. Press the darts to the side (a).
Front skirt panels
Bring the pleats along the front skirt panels in position according to the arrows; pin on top (b).
5
Front pieces / front skirt panels
Note: If using light fabrics press a little piece of interlining as support on the corner of the front piece.
Pin the front piece on the front skirt panel from seam 1 to the corner, right sides facing, then stitch. Snip in
the allowance corner (arrow). Press the allowances to the top ©. Fold the placket down and stitch on the front
skirt panel from the corner to seam 3. Trim allowances, snip in the curve (d). Fold the placket to the front and
press the allowances inside the placket (e).
Step 7
Facings / front pieces
Neaten the facings along the rounded vertical edge. Position the facings on the plackets of the front piece
(seam 2), right sides facing. Pin the front edges together and stitch, thereby ending at the placket seam
(arrow). Secure seam ends. Trim the allowances of the front edges (a). Fold the allowances of the bottom
placket edge to the top and pin (b).
Center front seam
Position the front skirt panels together, right sides facing. Stitch the center front seam from the placket seam
(arrow) to the bottom. Secure seam ends. Trim seam allowances and press apart ©.
Fold the facing inside and pin, then press. Stitch the front edges narrowly. Pin the inner facing edge on the
seam (d).
Step 8
6
Inner front piece
Stitch the darts at the inner front piece according to the text and drawing 1. Neaten the front piece edges at
the bottom and the rounded placket edges.
Edge neckline with bias strips
Pin the bias strips on the neckline edge of the inner front piece, right sides facing. Stitch _â (0.7 cm) wide.
Press the strip over the seam to the top, then fold over the edge to the inside (a). Turn bias strip and pin it
onto the seam so that it overlaps. Stitch onto the right fabric side, thereby catching the bias strip (b).
Stitch front pieces together
Position the dress front piece, folded inside out, on the table. The front edges meet. Position the inner front
piece on top, so that its right fabric side faces the wrong side of the lower piece. The edges meet. The
neckline ends at the cross line. Pin the pieces together along the outer edges and the seam lines ©.
Turn the front piece. Topstitch the bottom edge of the front piece and the facing narrowly along the seam
line, thereby catching the inner edges (d).
Step 9
7
Center back seams
Position the back pieces and back skirt panels together, right sides facing. Pin the center seams and stitch.
Neaten seam allowances and press apart. Along the back skirt panel bring the pleats into position.
Position the back piece on the back skirt panel (seam 4), right sides facing. The center seams meet. Stitch the
cross line. Trim allowances, neaten and press inside the back piece. Topstitch the seam line narrowly (a)
Shoulder seams
Position the front piece on the back piece, right sides facing. Stitch shoulder seams (seam 6). Neaten
allowances and press inside the back piece (b).
Step 10
Edge neckline
Position the bias strips together according to the drawing, right sides facing (right-angled) (a). Stitch the
seam from corner to corner (straight thread grain). Trim allowances and press apart (b).
Pin the bias strips on the neckline, right sides facing. The seam of the bias strips is positioned above the
center back seam. Allow the ends of the front edges to overlap. Stitch the strip _â (0.7 cm) wide ©.
Flip the strips over the seam and press. Trim the front strip ends to _â (1 cm) to fold the front edge inside.
Border the edge. Sew the front ends of the edge by hand. Border armholes (d).
Step 11
8
Side seams / pouch seams
Pin the pocket pouches on the front and back skirt panels, the cross lines meet. Stitch. Secure seam ends (a).
Fold the pocket pouches over the edge seams and press (b).
Position the front piece on the back piece, right sides facing. Pin side seams (seam 5). Stitch, starting at the
opening sign for the zipper (arrow) on the left side ©; and for both seams leave the spaces between the cross
lines meant for the pocket openings open and do NOT stitch. Leave it pinned. Secure seam ends (d).
Neaten allowances. Press the allowances and pocket pouches apart (e).
Press the pocket pouch inside the front skirt panel, pin and stitch. Neaten allowances (f).
Step 12
Zipper
Pin the zipper under the opening edge so that the little teeth are hidden. Turn the ends of the zipper strap.
Stitch the zipper using a zipper foot. Note: Sew the allowances of the side seams by hand on the armholes
(a).
Hemline
Neaten hemline, fold inside and press. Sew the hemline by hand (b).
Hook and eye
Sew the hooks and eyes under the front placket edges, beginning at the cross line with interspaces of 2â (5
cm), the hooks to the right and the eyes to the left ©.
Mila
9
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