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From a distance it makes little difference whether details such as buttonholes, edge-stitching holding the lining in place round the neck, or even bands of embroidery, are worked by hand or machinę. Hand work only becomes important for Living History, when clothes are presented as examples of medieval dress: these should not have visible machinę stitching.

Like many basie skills, hand sewing can be learned ąuickly but is perfected through regular practice. Working threads should not be longer than 40 cm. Work slowly at first, paying attention to each stitch. You should find that your hands become practised and the work speeds up naturally. A thimble can save wear and tear on your fingers. For permanent hand stitching start by securing the thread with a few back stitches: this is neater and morę secure than a knot. Finish by threading the end back through the last few stitches.

The instructions are drawn for right-handed people: if you are left-handed, look at the diagrams in a mirror.

4. Running stitch, stab stitch, and backstitch

a.    Running stitch is rarely used for construction as it is weak and sloppy on all but thin materials, though it can be reinforced with a backstitch every few stitches. Work horizontally making several stitches at a time.

b.    Stab stitch is good for holding together multiple layers, such as the folded edges of lined garments. Work at right angles to the materiał and puli the thread through after each insertion, making one stitch at a time.

c.    Backstitch can be used as an alternative to straight machinę stitching, especially on visible edges. Work horizontally, baekwards then forwards as shown.

3. Lapping a seam

An application of hemming stitch, worked on raw edges laid fiat and overlapping by 1 to 2 cm. Mainly for coarse, fraying wools. Can be decorative when worked with coloured yarn. Tack the overlapped edges together and work one row of hemming on each side.

5. Triple-run seams

Three rows of running stitch (or backstitch for the join) are used to make a fiat seam. It is commonly used for the main leg seams of hose.

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