tmta5

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10. Fuli pattern and layout for Fig 8

The Back and Front, for the shorter gown, are shown on cloth 140 cm wide folded lengthways. Although the Back is shown on the fold it should be cut as two panels.

Gown length is 75 cm and side seam length is 50 cm. Hem width is 65 cm giving a total hem of 260 cm, generous for a short gown. A knee length gown might be 110 cm long, with side seam about 85 cm. This would have a gentler flarę with the same hem width.

To prepare your working pattern see Planning above.

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11. Bag sleeve, late 14th to mid 15th century

A wide, loose shape with the seam at the underarm, not based on the sleeve Błock.

On the right of the paper, rule a vertical linę equal to Arm length (AL) and parallel with SG. This will be the fold linę of the finished sleeve. Measure the gown armhole. From (AL) measure down 10-12 cm and square out to the left. Along this linę measure off and mark half Top Arm plus 5 cm, to u. The UP must lie beyond this point.

Using a tape measure on edge for a guide, sketch the sleeve head to equal half the gown armhole. Start by squaring out from the shoulder, then curve gently down to UP, outside u. If UP lies morę than 5 cm outside u, lower UP slightly to bring it nearer.

Plan the shape of the underarm seam, keeping outside u. The outline shows the fashionable deep bag with a tight buttoned wrist; check against Wrist size. The balance mark shows the short wrist opening along the seam.

Cut each sleeve in one piece on the fold. When setting into the gown, match the underarm seam to the side seam of the body: the fold linę will normally fali forward of the shoulder seam.

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