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4. Hoods as hats, mid 14th to mid 15th century

From about 1350 many hoods were madę to be worn as hats, which allowed the shape to evolve in different ways.

The examples also offer a basis for experiment. You can make the face edge deeper, for rolling up, or enlarge the head section and extend the liripipe for a ‘turban’ effect.

a. An early style. The original hood shape has been turned and flattened to reduce the bulk on the crown of the head. Extra depth on what was the face opening is rolled up on the forehead.

b. A later style. Instead of rolling up the face edge, the liripipe is extended up to a metre or morę, and wrapped round the head. Here the dagged cape is pulled up and held in place by the liripipe, but some wearers leave it hanging down.

They are madę as two halves sewn together. Scalę up the patterns to match your measurements and try them in spare fabric, or experiment with your own design.

Any lining need not extend into the liripipe. For dagging see Methods, Fig 24; PI 4.

5. Bag-hat, late 14th to later 15th century

Although possibly derived from the hood, this is really a one- or two-piece cloth hat, usually worn with the edge rolled up to form a brim (PI 18).

This tali bag is out in two pieces, with depth for the rolled up brim. Add about 5 cm ease to half Head size to allow for the bulk of the roli: the measurement on the pattern represents the outside of the roli.

Scalę up the patterns to match your measurements and try them in spare fabric, or experiment with your own design.

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