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Gowns

The gown, or houppelande as it was also called through much of the period, first appeared about the 1360s. The same style was worn by both men and women as an alternative to the tight-fitting cotehardie. It was loose and often buttoned from neck to hem (Fig 1). It was worn with or without a belt. This early simpler form persisted well into the 15th century among the merchant class and gentry.

The gown had undergone some changes by the beginning of the 15th century. It became morę voluminous, with folds fading to a wider hem, and ranged from fuli length (Fig 1) to about hip level (Fig 8). Sleeves became morę elaborate and collars higher for both men and women (Fig 3). The front opening was buttoned or laced closed to the chest, or reached down to the hem. The body was drawn in with a belt worn by men at natural waist level, and by women high up under the bust. Contemporary illustrations indicate a careful arrangement of the fullness under the belt. An elaborate example for the wealthy of both sexes is shown in Fig 12, for a woman.

In the first ąuarter of the 15th century, men's and women's styles started to diverge into distinct garments, as described below.

Men's gowns

Changes in the gown were brought about by tailors' increasing skill in manipulating pattern and fabric. Fig 16 illustrates an elaborate gown of the mid 15th century. This might be open for its fuli length and fastened with concealed hooks and eyes (Pis 12-13). The gown was usually calf-length or longer, sometimes with slashed sleeves, and lined or edged with fur (Fig 18), though worn very short by some fashionable young men (Pl 11). The garment became slimmer in shape, and from the 1470s was worn open to show the inner clothing.

The early plain shape, still fastened from neck to hem, persisted to the end of the century among merchants, wealthier townsmen (Fig 17), and workmen with one gown for best.

Men wore the gown over doublet and hose, though sometimes only the ends of the doublet sleeves were visible. Often the gown neck was

1. 1400, English

Elderly merchant displaying the 14th-century passion for buttons, which fasten every visible garment. His hood lies on his shoulders over a mantle, thrown back to show a plain buttoned gown, with very long doublet sleeves emerging. A handsome belt supports a short sword. (Brass, Northleach church, Gloucestershire).

2. 1395-1400, French

Three men in short gowns with very high collars edged with fur and a variety of sleeves. Notę the regular pleats under their belts. The central figurę wears an early bag-hat. Although this is an era of excessively long toes, all three wear plain shoes or soled hose, perhaps because they are out of doors. (British Library, MS Royal 20, C VII, f.60v).

3. c. 1410, English

Merchant and his wite in similar gowns. Both have bag sleeves and buttoned neck openings, but her outfit has a wider collar and longer inner sleeves. He is bareheaded; she has a fillet looped round side buns of plaited hair, and a draped veil.

(Brass, Southfleet church, Kent).

3

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