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8. Men's short gowns, late 14th/early 15th century

The flarę is pulled in by a belt, but the folds are not stitched in position. This early style can also be madę full-length.

Left Calf-length gown with standing collar. Short laced opening at neck, and vent at hem. Open sleeves (Fig 15) with square dagging.

Right Short gown with high standing collar. Short buttoned opening, Large bag sleeves with tight, buttoned wrists (Fig 11).

9. Upper bodice and collar for Fig 8 Bodice - Tracę and enlarge the bodice Błock to waist only, as for Fig 5.

Collar - This is a 4-piece collar, shown in two heights. A 2-piece alternative is shown in Fig 5.

Draw vertical construction lines by extending the CB and CF lines upwards - if the CF is slanted, draw up vertically from CF at the neck. Add a third linę up from the Back neck point b.

Back collar - From a at the CB measure up 5 cm and mark (a). Measure up and mark the top edge 8-10 cm above (a).

From the Back neck point b, measure up 3 cm. Rule a linę from (a) through this point and measure off from (a) the length ab, to mark (b). From near (b) measure 6-8 cm up the construction linę and mark e. Draw the side seam to here, curving in from (b). Draw the top edge ot the back collar curving it slightly up to e. Mark the vertical SG.

Front collar - From the extended CF linę at (c) rule a horizontal construction linę, running just above the

Front neck point. From (c) draw a curved linę to (b), about 2.5 cm above the horizontal linę, with (c)(b) equal in length to the Front neck edge. Measure 6-8 cm up from (c) and mark d. Measure and mark the same distance vertically up from (b) to match the side seam ot the back collar.

With a tape measure on edge, measure the top edge ot the back collar and subtract this from half Neck size. Use this difference plus 1 -2 cm ease for the top edge ot the front collar de. This collar should fit closely, so the two top edges together should equal half Neck size plus about 2 cm ease. Adjust the size if necessary, by moving in the point e.

Draw in the side seam and top edge, and mark the SG on the bias as shown. Mark matching balance points on the neck edges of bodice and collar. Tracę off the collar patterns.

The higher collar with the rolled edge is shown by the broken outline: extend the existing pattern upwards as shown, flaring it out to form the roli. See Methods, Fig 14c for making up the collar.

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