tmta8

Women’s gowns

24. Flared gown, early to late 15th century

This is cut like the early gown. The extended shape of the back collar appeared towards 1450. The fashionable neckline was Iow enough to show the front of the kirtle, or later a stomacher. A fine kerchief might be tucked inside the neckline. The front opening extended to hip level and was often clearly visible. It had no fastenings. The gown has no waist seam, but with careful adjustment it is possible to get a smooth fit above the belt and an even flarę below.

Straight fitted sleeves became increasingly common, though early wider forms were still used. This basie gown shape persisted to the end of the century for older and less fashionable women, with a smali collar and a looser sleeve.

Platę 15 Detail from Platę 9

This characteristic gown, with a train, is seen here without a belt. It is lined or edged with fur, which is also seen on the mitten euffs of the fitted sleeves. The square neck opening of the kirtle beneath is filled with a sheer kerchief. A 'flowerpot' head-dress with black loop and fillet completes the outfit.

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