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23. Adapting the sleeve Błock for a closer fit

To make a closer-fitting sleeve, tracę the sleeve Błock so that the Straight Grain runs parallel with the upper Back seam and draw a new lower Back seam as shown. The morę shaped seam linę can be based on the tight sleeve measurements (Fig 3) or fitted on the wearer. At least 2 cm ease is needed round the upper arm, but the wrist can be very close-fitting.

Cutting the sleeve

When cutting a sleeve the Basic linę will normally lie along the Straight Grain of the fabric, indicated by arrows in Fig 21, but in some cases the Straight Grain can lie parallel to the Back Seam (Fig 23): this puts the under part of the sleeve somewhat on the bias, which can improve the fit.

Blocks for children, Fig 24

Children's garments are normally less fitted than those for adults, and they can be based on a simple błock which allows for growth. Following the method described above, make a loose-fitting błock without waist darts or Centre Front and Centre Back shaping. Make the sleeve wide enough to slip over the hand without wrist fastenings.

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