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How to use the book

UP - Underarm Point FO - Front opening FL - Front linę FP - Front Point AL - Arm length

The instructions are intended for readers with basie dressmaking skills. Beginners are advised to use a modern dressmaking manuał or, better still, work with an experienced sewer or a teacher.

1. Choosing your garment or outfit

Read the Preparation section, choose your garment, and consider what is to be worn with it, and in what context.

2. For your chosen garment

Find the section for your garment and see what you will need in practice. Read the historical background, methods of planning, cutting and making up, materials, etc. For each main garment the opening page illustrates a complete outfit to go with it.

3. Simpler garments

For simpler garments based on rectangles and triangles of cloth, such as shirts, smocks, cotes and surcotes, follow the instructions for the garment. Sketch the pattern pieces to scalę using your personal measurements. Make a toile or fuli paper pattern before cutting. Always try to cut the straight lines of the pattern on the grain of the fabric.

4. Fitted garments

For fitted garments you first need to prepare a personal pattern or Błock. Read the Blocks section: measure the wearer (Figs 1-3) then model the toile and prepare the Błock (Figs 4-21). The Błock is essential to achieving the 'look' of the period: it offers a close fit for both layers of garments madę from it while allowing freedom of movement.

Blocks shown in the Blocks section are based on the measurements of four individuals. The Blocks and patterns for fitted garments illustrated throughout the book were custom madę to fit two individuals: a size 42 man and a size 14 woman.

Don't worry if your Błock looks different! Since the Błock provides a close personal fit, the Blocks shown are intended only as a guide - not as patterns to enlarge and copy. The patterns for head-wear, however, can be scaled up and adjusted on the wearer.

Once your Błock is prepared, it can be used to plan any fitted garment you choose.

5. Adapting the Błock

To adapt your Błock for a particular pattern see Blocks again, starting at 'From Błock to pattern'. Then go to the chosen garment and follow the instructions.

6. Reading the patterns

Patterns are shown with a scalę. Fitted garments are shown on a grid scalę: the original Błock appears in fine outline with the adapted pattern sections on top in heavier outline. Fine straight lines are used for construction lines. Fleavy bro-ken lines indicate alternative shapes. The Straight Grain is shown by arrows.

Letters indicate joining or measuring points, and short marks on seam lines show balance points. f^Fold outside the edge of a grid indicates the fold of the fabric. f^Fold > inside the edge of a pattern piece indicates that the edge should be placed on folded fabric and cut in one piece.

Abbreuiations CB - Centre Back CF - Centre Front BP - Back Point SP - Shoulder Point NP - Neck Point

Measurements - Metric units: metres (m), centi-metres (cm) and millimetres (mm) are used throughout. To convert to inches see the scalę below, or use a tape measure marked with both scales. Use 1 in = 2.5 cm as a rule of thumb.

⁾ 1 2 3 4

_l_1_l_l_

f ^{6 7}

__I_i_

_i_

_Q 10 Centimetres

A_i_,_,_,_

, I

1 1 1 1 1 T

i i i i i r

0 1 2 3 4 Inches 5 6

Corwersion scalę: centimetres to inches

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