36225 tmta3

Lower the new front neckline by the same amount. Measure the new neck edge ot the bodice, back plus front. From a on the new CB neck, rule the CB linę ot the collar slanting out slightly and about 5 cm long. From a rule another linę about 25 cm long, passing 0.5 cm above the neck point ot the błock, b.

On this linę measure off the length ot the back neck edge and mark it b: this point will meet the shoulder seam when the collar is set on. From b

measure off the length ot the front neck edge and mark it c. Draw a slightly curved linę from b ending 1 -2 cm above c as shown.

Measure off and mark a balance point, e, on both the Front neck edge and front collar edge, 10 cm from b. Draw the top edge ot the collar 4-5 cm above the lower edge to d, checking that it is 1 -2 cm morę than half Neck size. Mark the SG and tracę off the collar.

For making up see Methods, Fig 14a.

7. Sleeve for Fig 4

A plain gown sleeve for men and women, enlarged from the sleeve Błock.

Measure the armhole ot the gown bodice. Add the increase, here 3 cm, as in Blocks, Fig 25. Combine the enlarging ot the sleeve head with widening the wrist, here by 15 cm, to make a tubular sleeve.

Tracę the Błock and slash down the Front linę.

Front linę - Rule a new FL on a fresh piece ot paper. At the sleeve head, position the two pieces half the total increase apart (here 2.5 cm) on either side ofthe new FL. At the wrist, position the halves about 5 cm apart. Stick down the two halves.

Seam lines - To complete the sleeve head move BP out by half the remaining increase (here 1.25 cm) on each side and redraw the curve. To complete the wrist, measure about 5 cm out on each side and mark this. Rule new seam lines from BP to wrist, checking they are ot equal length, and draw a new wrist edge which may be slightly longer than the Błock.

Tracę off the pattern and mark the new SP, shown by the balance mark.

143

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