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Interlining

Interlining (interfacing), Fig 11 Both terms are used for extra layers of materiał, added through all or part of a garment, to increase weight or stiffness. For good ąuality doublets use canvas or calico throughout, with extra layers for high collars. For a tight-fitting kirtle bodice use heavy canvas, and soft wool to add weight and bulk to a large gown.

Always cut the interlining on the same grain as the outer materiał. It is best if both layers are caught together with regular rows of pad-stitching or large herringbone stitches before making up. After stitching the seams, trim the interlining close to the stitching to reduce bulk; and on edges trim the interlining to the fitting linę before finishing.

Interlining fiat pieces, Fig 13

Parts of dress such as cuffs, collars, some head-wear and accessories are often interlined to stiffen them and also lined. Depending on its purpose, the interlining can be anything from linen canvas to heavy buckram: if it is too heavy to tack through easily, hołd the covering materials in place with clothes pegs or spring elips. If the outer materiał is to be decorated with embroidery or braiding, work this before you make up the shape, if necessary through the interlining.

11. Interlining

For large pattern pieces the interlining should be permanently attached by regular rows of stitches so the two layers of materiał will work as one. Use tiny stitches, which will not show on the right side.

13. Interlining, lining and joining fiat pieces

Cut three layers: the outer materiał, with seam allowances; the stiff interlining of buckram or canvas, without seam allowances or very slightly undersized; and a lightweight lining, again with seam allowances.

a.    Interlining a (curved) shape. Tack the interlining to the outer materiał as shown. Turn the seam allowances over the interlining, snipping or gathering the edges as needed. Tack again through the seam allowances to secure them, then pin the lining in place.

b.    Lining a (round) shape, already interlined.

Smooth out the lining so that all three layers lie fiat on the same grain. Start by pinning the halves and quarters along the straight grain, then place further pins between them. Hem the lining onto the seam allowances of the outer fabric, just inside the folded edge.

c.    Joining completed parts. If they are too stiff to

pin, use bulldog elips or clothes pegs to hołd the parts in position. Use slip stitch to draw them together as shown.    50

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